Sunday, May 20, 2018

How to Determine the Cable Length for Your Garage Door

How to Determine the Cable Length for Your Garage Door
Use the steps below to determine your correct replacement cable length for your garage door cables (for doors using torsion springs only).
You will need to determine some of the following information before you begin!
1.   Identify the manufacturer and part number of your cable drum
2.   Calculate the distance from the floor to the center line of the garage door spring torsion shaft.
3.   Calculate the amount of high lift your garage door has (if applicable) by using one of the following methods:
(a) To determine amount of high lift you can measure from floor to center line of shaft in inches and then subtract the door height in inches and subtract an additional 6 ½” for a 2” track or subtract 7 ½” for a 3” track. The total remainder will equal your high lift amount; or
(b) Measure from the floor to the bottom of your horizontal garage door track in inches then subtract your door height and the total remainder is the high lift amount.

The above information is only a basic reference point.  Always use precautions when replacing garage door cables.  It is recommended that these repairs only be done by trained professionals.

Monday, November 13, 2017

Door Counter-balance and Cable/Bottom Bracket Inspection

-->
Fall is here in Minnesota and we know what's coming next....Winter!
Here is the first in a series of garage door inspections that you can easily do to prepare your garage door and opener for the long winter ahead.
How to Perform a Garage Door Spring Test
DO NOT RELEASE the garage door opener safety release with the door in the open position. If a spring is broken or severely out of adjustment, the door could fall causing death or severe injury. Caution: If you are the least bit unsure, or do not understand this procedure, please, contact a professional garage door service to inspect your door.
First, with the garage door in the completely CLOSED position, release the garage door opener safety release.
Next, raise the garage door manually, so that the bottom of the door is in the middle of the opening. Be sure the path from the door bottom to the floor is clear, (children, pets, feet, hands, objects, etc.). The door should raise with little effort and stay positioned in the mid- open position.  If the door goes down with any amount of force, falling, or heavy, your spring system is out of adjustment and needs to be addressed.
All garage door spring systems have a life cycle, typically 5,000- 10,000 cycles, and begin to wear as soon as they are put in to use. Because 95% of garage doors have openers on them, we do not notice when the spring goes out of adjustment, causing undue wear and damage to the opener.
My older brother called me late one evening to say that he was at his son's house because they could not get the garage door to close properly.  The opener was making a grinding noise & the door kept going back up. He wanted to know if I could help him trouble shoot the problem over the phone from 100 miles away. I said sure, I'll help.
With the advent of smart phone technology and a few questions, I was able to determine that the door was 10 years old, and that the spring was so severely out of adjustment, that the top two feet of door close travel was completed only by the opener and not the torsion spring! Garage door openers were never designed to open or close doors with out the spring counterbalance assistance.
Well, eventually, the door "dumped" the cables, and they had become tangled and bound on the cable drums the door couldn't move. I might add that this was a monster of a door - 16’x8’ with windows, and a pair of 2" x .283 x 41" torsion springs. The door weighed about 400 pounds!
We determined that this door was going nowhere and that the services of a professional door technician was needed, the door stayed open that night since daylight was needed to properly access the situation and wait for the technician.
I explained to my brother that what we needed to do was to get the cables untangled on the cable drums, and to do that in the dark with no experience and less than ideal circumstances was almost a guaranteed hand/finger amputation.
He called Pete Hawkins, the owner of Hawkins Overhead Door of Wabasha, Minnesota, www.hawkinsoverheaddoor.com,  who came right over the next morning and replaced the cables and properly adjusted the garage door torsion springs.
Thank you for your prompt and professional service Pete!

Saturday, August 27, 2016

How to Remove and Install Garage Door Weather Seal

-->
SAFETY FIRST! Be very careful around the garage door. It’s one of the heaviest moving objects on your house and can inflict serious or even deadly injury and harm to people, pets and objects in and around the garage.

Getting Started
Start by placing all of the necessary tools outside of the garage (on the driveway, etc.) because you will need to close the garage door when you begin the weather seal removal and installation process.
Recommended Tools Needed:
·      Safety glasses and work gloves
·      Utility knife with a NEW, sharp blade
·      Tape measure
·      Vice Grips and/or locking pliers or clamps
·      Pencil
·      Drill and a 1/16” drill bit
·      New garage door weather seal (available at www.stardoorparts.com)
·      Utility Shears or other means to cut the weather seal
·      Hammer
·      Nails
·      Caulk gun
·      Caulk (we suggest using one that is paintable so you can match it to the color of your house or garage door)
·      Clean cloth
·      Household spray cleaner (such as 409)
·      An Assistant!

Removal of the Old Weather Seal
1.     Start by closing the garage door and unplugging the garage door opener from the power source. Also, if your opener is equipped with an emergency operator trolley release (usually a red T-style pull handle on a rope connected to the trolley), be sure to pull the release to disengage the trolley from the track and manually raise the garage door to the open position.  We have found that it is easier to work on the weather seal with the garage door in an open position.  To do this hold the garage door where you desire it to stay and use a locking pliers (Vise Grips) and clamp it to the garage door track.

Tip: Be sure to position the locking clamp below the bottom roller so that the door cannot close on you if the torsion spring tension happens to be out of adjustment. This is a very common issue and the tension should be adjusted annually only by a trained professional.

2.     To begin removal of the old weather seal, (with the garage door in an open position), choose a side and take a sharp utility knife (with a NEW blade) and make a clean score at the joint between the weather seal body (wood, aluminum, PVC, or vinyl) and the garage door jamb (see photo).  This will allow you to remove the old weather seal with out damaging the finish on the garage door jamb.

3.     Using a rigid, steel putty knife, firmly push between the old weather seal and the garage door jamb. With a gentle prying motion, loosen the weather seal from the door jamb. Now you will be able to use a flat bar (pry bar) inserted in the gap to finish removing the seal and nails.

Tip: You may want to place a small piece of sheet metal or a putty knife under the pry bar to prevent damaging the finished garage door jamb (see photos).

4.     Repeat this process for the remaining top and side pieces of weather seal.

5.     With all of the weather seal and fasteners removed from the garage door jambs, take this opportunity to remove any debris and ridges of paint.  We also suggest cleaning the door jambs with a clean cloth and some household spray cleaner (like 409 or a similar product that cut remove dirt and grease).
Installation of New Weather Seal
1.     Start by using a tape measure to measure the length of the inside of the top garage door jamb, side-to-side at the top, where the top piece of garage door weather seal will be installed first (see photos).

Tip:  This step is done much easier with two people.

2.     Use a utility shears to cut the new, replacement weather seal pieces to length (be sure to first check the fit and adjust as needed and re-measure BEFORE cutting!).
Tip:  You can use utility shears, a hand or electric hand saw with a fine tooth blade (placed in a miter box based on type of saw used), an angle grinder with a 3/32” cutoff wheel, or a multi-tool with a fine tooth blade or saw. There are many options to choose from here, just remember to utilize ALL SAFETY MEASURES regarding eye wear, hearing protection, gloves, etc.

3.     After you have determined the placement of the new, cut weather seal, we recommend drilling small pilot holes for the nails.  We have found that it is easier to drill a small pilot hole (slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail you will use) centered in the width of the new weather seal, 1 inch from each end and then in 8” – 12” inch intervals for the entire length of weather seal.  This eliminates the need to try to pound the nails in while in an upside down position (see photo).

Tip:  If it is colder than 60 degrees F outside we highly recommend that you take the time to drill small pilot holes especially if you are installing PVC seal and the main body cracks easily at colder temperatures.

4.     Next, push a nail into each hole in the weather seal. We prefer to use color matched Maze brand galvanized, smooth or ring shank trim nails, but a stainless steel or 4D, (about 1-3/8” to 1-1/2” in length) galvanized box nails should work as well.  Do not use steel nails of any type as they will rust and leave rust streak on the paint and finishes.

Photo Notes:  Nails shown in photo, left to right, are: Galvanized Brown Maze Ring Shank Nail, Galvanized White Maze Ring Shank Nail and Stainless Steel Smooth Shank Nail.  The 4D Galvanized Smooth Shank Box Nail is not pictured.

5.     With the door in the closed position, and with the help of your assistant, raise the weather seal into position, making sure to adjust the lip of the seal so that it presses against the face of the garage door, forming an air tight seal. The solid PVC body of the seal should not contact the garage door.

6.     Start all of the nails across the top piece of weather seal into the door jamb, but do not drive the nails all the way in until you have made your final adjustments to the weather seal placement (see photo).

7.     Repeat the same process for both of the side door jamb weather seals, adjusting the weather seal fit as you go.
8.     Next you can trim the soft vinyl flaps at a 45 degree angle in the corners for a nice, clean-looking finish.
9.     Check the garage door operation to make sure it does not bind on the weather seal at any point as it travels along the track.

10.  Now you can drive the weather seal nails all the way in, just be careful not to hit the door if you have it closed at this time.
11. If you had problems with binding before you replaced the seals, you may find that you will need to adjust the garage door operator pressure limit settings.  Refer to your garage door operator Owner’s Manual or their website for this information.
12. Finally, for a nice clean appearance and to seal-out the weather elements, we recommend using a latex, silicone-based but paint-able caulk, to seal along the edge of the weather seal and the door jamb.  Be sure to use a damp rag to wipe away any excess caulk.  You can then apply touch-up paint as needed.
If you aren’t sure what weather seal to buy at www. stardoorparts.com, simply write us at sales@stardoorparts.com and we will try to help and get what you what need quickly and at our low prices.  Also be sure to check out our other Garage Door DIY Articles on our website.

Monday, August 22, 2016

Helpful Tips on Hiring Home Contractor

How to Hire a Local Contractor

Whether you are looking to hire a contractor to install new rollers on your garage door or build an addition to your garage, it's important to hire a licensed contractor that is also experienced in their field. Here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:

1.  In most every state it is the law that any contractor who advertises MUST be licensed, no matter the size of the job. So look and ask for a license number and check it online at your states registrar of contractors or equivalent site.   Once on the site, enter the company license number. Note the name of the company (does it match the name of the company being advertised?). Also verify if they have worker’s compensation insurance. If they say they don’t, ask when you call them, who will be coming out. If it’s the name (of the individual/owner) on the license, no problem. If it is a technician, or any other name don't do business with them since said they didn’t have employees!  You now know that whoever would come out to perform the work is not licensed or insured. They will say they are sub contractors but they are not.  You can also look to see if they have any complaints and if their license was ever revoked or suspended and why. Stay away from any contractor which you has any unresolved matters with the state licensing agency.

2.  Check the your local Better Business Bureau (BBB). Contrary to a mixed news reviews that debunked their credibility, they actually are a very credible source. They will have online reviews and records that you can search that include contractors who are not even members of the BBB. You can see how many and what type of complaints weed files and how long ago they were and what the resolution was. Make sure whoever you hire has a good rating. It takes a lot of accountability to maintain a good rating over the years.

3.  Use the following web sites and look for reviews: Google and Yelp. Simply type in the company or contractor name and then add the word "reviews" to the search and you should get a list of most reviews on the web.

4.  If you have several projects to do, Angie’s List is a great resource for contractors.  A company can’t get on Angie’s List directly. Their clients have to refer them. This is like having a giant data base of reviews for contractors in various specialties in your area. There’s a small annual fee but worth it if you may need to do multiple searches.

Now, hopefully these tips will help you make an informed decision about any contractor or company you hire in any of the trades! Taking 15 minutes to check things out will give you a good sense of the company and could save you time and money!

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Check Out Our New Website!

Star Door Parts just launched a completely new and redesigned website to enhance your shopping experience. We are still the same company that you have come to trust with our outstanding customer service, fast shipping, low prices and comprehensive inventory and product selection.

While redesigning our site we listened to your feedback and worked to provide you an even better online shopping experience. Specifically changed was our mobile site. Our new site is responsive to the devise you are using which means that the website will look different on a smartphone, tablet and desktop. The navigation is now easier since the mobile site automatically adjusts the site view to your phone screen size and position held. If you still need the full features of our desktop site but are using a mobile device, simply use your browser option to Request Desktop Site from either your Safari or Chrome browser menu.

We appreciate your business and welcome any continued feedback on our website design, product offerings, blogs, etc.

The Team at Star Door Parts

https://www.stardoorparts.com/

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Screw Drive Garage Door Opener: Light Bulb Replacement | DoItYourself.com

Screw Drive Garage Door Opener: Light Bulb Replacement | DoItYourself.comHow to Change the Light Bulb and Lens Cover on a Garage Door Opener

It's important to change the light bulb in your garage door opener with one that is designed to work with you opener and is resistant to vibration to ensure a longer lifespan. Be cautious when using LED and CFL bulbs as they can give off interference and interfere with the operation of your remote transmitters. Read more here by clicking on the link.